A couple of weeks ago someone was kind enough to mail me a couple of copies of "Experience Pipeline" - a book where "you're the pro surfer in this story" and " a coin flip determines your fate". Having taken the same random approach with many a decision in life (though not quite to the extent of the Dice Man), it would be churlish to criticise this principle of chaos that has spiced up life for me from time to time.
However, a book where the storyline has you flip-flopping through bite sized chunks of text based on whether you toss a "heads" or "tails" is just not up my strada. Combine that with a lead character called Nelly Yater, exclamations competing for vowel extensions - all "Noooo!" and "Aaaah!" - and I was reaching for the hatchet, razor, shredder simultaneously. Heads I win, tails you lose. Which would be missing the point. This book isn't meant for jaded, faded Beach Bum's like me - it's book for Groms who don't or won't read for fun.
I asked young SurferDawg, teen skateboard-surfer mongrel with an aversion to desks and revision to give it the once over. To quote from his review, which I'm encouraging him to post in its entirety on his site:
"The book is very well written and easy to read, you are able to quickly flow through the book as the paragraphs are short and you don't forget the last piece of text. I myself am not very fond of books and try to get out of reading them. However this book really drew me in and I was fixed on it. Maybe this is because of my love for surfing and therefore I am able to relate to it well or maybe its just the way in which it is written. Not having to read loads all at once or pages and pages of paragraphs. Quinn Haber (pictured below) I think has written it really well with great structure."
There's a copy of "Experience Pipeline" on the shack shelf here for any reader that want's it. First come, first served - just email me and you got it coming your way. Nuff said - except for the fact that in directing you to Surferdawg's site I am in no way, and in no shape or form, encouraging, endorsing or otherwise advocating the skateboarding at speed down high streets whilst dodging the local constabulary - and traffic.
Pipeline off the page and in your face is an altogether different beast and one I'll never have the skill or probably the opportunity to savour. The underlying reef, the sharks, the hellish wipeouts - all have contributed to its reputation as a waverider's graveyard. As recently as March, this proved to be the case for one unfortunate soul.
Check out this animation that explains more about the wave dynamics at Pipeline. Forewarned is forearmed!